02' </span>G</span>RAND Marquis Headlight Problem. Had a loose Battery terminal so i left my car running as i ran into a store.. upon return my friend stated that the entire " LED " Dash panel lights had been flickering on and off as the car sat and idled. (1 1/2 hrs approx.) I had noticed that i lost a headlight during this time also. Got in and drove5 min. to a fast food drive through. Placed my order, but as i put the car in gear .. the entire electrical system shorted dead. lost all power: lights engine everything; DEAD! Had to purchase a set 0f jumper cables and ret'd to the vehicle and promptly jumped it off . no problem. dash and all lights still flickered on the short drive home. After changing out the positive cable end, it starts and runs fine.. EXCEPT-- i didnt have a burned out headlamp after all. switched out bulbs from other side and still get no dim on the passenger headlamp. only have high beam on the passenger side now even with good bulbs. What could cause the lights on just that one side to not function on Dim.. &gt;&gt;??? all wires appear ok visually but they immediately go into the harness after leaving the back of the headlamp bulb plug in.. am i going to have to chase down every wire from the lamp to the fuse box.. geez i hope not. HELP .. got stopped by the 5-0 last night and have one week to figure this out or my warning turns into a citation. [img]smileys/smiley11.gif[/img]</span></span></font></span>
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There is a way to check it, however, no good news: You can not have the car running with the battery not being connected properly. If you do, there is a high chance the power spikes burned one of your computers.


However, they can be reset, and you might be lucky if there is no permanent damage. As far asI remember, the readout/reset is done through the OBD-II terminal.


That's all I can tell you. Your alternator delivers up to approximately 13.8 Volts of power, and an uncontrolled fluctuation of amps. The power is distributed into the battery, and your battery will supply power to the car. If only on terminal post does not have a solid connection, there is no regulation of voltage/amps anymore.


Greetings.

 

well went by auto parts store to ck the system out and when put under any kind of load the volts would drop immed. from 13 to 5 or so then the car would die. the ends still looked suspect so put on 20 dollar gold plated suckers.. when we hooked back up.. no voltage period.. found the big fuse in the fusable link burnt. after replacing it everything went back to normal.. it appeared the fuse was just almost burnt for some time. lights back to normal etc etc. still low volts while running.. 13.. my alternator guy says should be putting out fourteen or so. may have fried the battery.. im putting a good charge on it now before testing.

now if i could somehow lower the whole vehicle... id match my gold plated terminals.. but then id have to wear those darn droopy shorts and frankly i think they look stupid.. hehe.

 

Good to hear that you got it back to normal.


Mostly batteries deliver a little over 13 volts. I think your battery is still fine, unless you notice that you loose lots of power when starting the car. Easy way to check is: turn on igniting, headlights, blower motor on high and rear window defroster. If the car starts fine, don't worry about the battery for right now.


Greetings.