2000 Merc Sable LS, 3.0 4v eng, 64,000 miles

I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets about two months ago
and it has been running really great.

I drove it last night - no prob. This morning I tried to start it but all it does is crank with no indication of starting.

Fuel - about half a tank. With key on I removed the cap on the fuel rail Shrader valve and depressed it but no fuel came out.

I verified the voltage at the throttle position sensor - it''s Ok. I also made sure the fuel pump kill switch in the trunk was not out.

Started going through the ford cd manual but it''s a long process and I don''t have the all the diagnostics equipment to do some of the checks.

I don''t want to just start replacing parts - any ideas?

 

When you first turn the key on the fuel pump should run for a few seconds.. You shoudl be able to hear it in the car, but to be sure have someone sit in the car and listen in the fuel filler neck (with the cap off).. Have your assistance turn the key on and listen for a sort of a hum or whine in the tank.. If you hear nothing the fuel pump is not running...


SOunds like you covered the inertia switch in the trunk so the next simple check woudl be fuses..


IF they all check good the next step (if you can) would be to have your assistant try to start the car while you beat on the bottom of the tank with something (sometimes that''ll jar them enough to run, for a while)... If this causes it to start your fuel pump is due for replacing.. (if it starts get the car where it needs to be because it may not start again)


If still you have no start check the fuel pump relay... It''s in the underhood fuse box (location labeled on the cover).. With the key first turned on it should click on then off after a few seconds (you can feel it).. If it clicks pull the relay out, note on the bottom of it where the pins come out they are numbered... Should be 3 smaller pins, and 2 larger pins.. Using a jumper wire jump the two larger pins together in the fuse box (pins 3 and 5) IF you hear the pump start runing, or the car will start it''s the relay. (Swap the A/C relay in it''s place if you need the car to go get another relay) IF still no fuel it''s either a bad wire/connection, or most likely a bad fuel pump..


On rare occasions the inertia switches can go bad so as one last ditch effort you can unplug the interia switch... THe plug will have 3 holes for wires, but only 2 wires in it... Jump those two wires together and the intertia switch will be bypassed...

 

There is no fuel pump sound - normally I can hear it at first.

I wasn''t aware of the relay.

Is there a fuel pump fuse under the dash or in the underhood fuse box?

Cool trick hitting the tank.

I''ll check everything at first light tomorrow.

 

I believe the fuse is in the under hood box... I believe it''s also the same fuse for the ECM and not labeled "Fuel Pump".. I just can;t remeber off hand where that circuit is fused......I think that is addressed in the owners manual if need be.. IF you have a test light, the relay pin 3 (large outermost terminal) is the one that should have battery + to it all the time...


Good luck!

 

maxfax3, this is what I did this morning.

Starting at the front of the car I pulled the relays (fuel and ac). As suggested I swapped the relays - no fuel pump activity. Then I verified the voltage at the fuel relay socket with key on and off. In both cases there was constant and switched power. Using my multimeter and a jumper wire with the relay out of the car I tested the relay function. I checked the power to fuel pump contact by powering the relay and did a sound continuity check. The relay made a nice little "click" when activated and continuity sound check was positive through the fuel pump power contact. I would say that has been ruled out.

I then went back to the inertia switch in the trunk, pulled the connector and jumpered it - no fuel pump activity. I verified the voltage at the connector and by this time through repeated starting attempts the voltage was just under 11v, but I think that''''s acceptable. Do you agree?

Lastly, with key on I used a 2x4 and pounded on the bottom of the tank in several places. I thought I heard some activity but am not sure if that was the tank resonating. Car would not start.

One thing that bothered me is that pump gave me no indication of failure before this. In the past when electric fuel pumps failed they worked intermittently just before the finally stopped working.

But when I was looking at fuel pump relay I noticed the socket extensions were slightly discolored like it was hot. This was also the case with the relay socket. It''''s normally yellow but was slightly brownish discolored. Would you agree the pump was pulling some high amps leading up to a failure?

My guess is the next step is to drop the tank and replace the pump - do you agree?

You''''ve been a great help so far - thanks.
Edited by: nrlanni

 

What are your thoughts about buying only the pump and strainer kit rather than the complete pump assembly? There is a $60 - $70 difference in price.

It would mean taking the in-tank pump slosh canister apart and putting the new pump in there with the new strainer.

 

Sounds like you have a DOA pump... SOmetimes they will become intermittent, sometimes they just die... I''ve even had them still run but make no or low pressure...


If your fuel gauge works alright and you don;t mind dealing with that slosh canister I would by all means just get the pump and strainer... It''ll save you a fair amount of $$...


I replaced the entire assembly in my 97 because the fuel gauge was a bit screwy... Turns out with the new unit is just as screwy. If I had it to do over I woulda saved the extra $ and just keep track of hte milage like I do anyways...


I would probably throw a new fuel filter on there too just for good measure..

 

Yeah, my fuel gauge works good. The other thing is that I don''t know for sure if I have a 16 or 18 gal tank.

I made that mistake on my previous Sable (now junked). I bought the entire assembly but for a 16 gal tank and it turned out to have an 18 gal tank so my fuel gauge was messed up. It was a little different because the fuel pump assembly fit into a canister that was affixed inside the tank itself.

But it looks like from current model fuel pump photos the canister is part of the assembly and it can be disassembled. We''ll see after I get it out. Yes, I''ll replace my fuel filter - good advice.

This car is a 2000 model year but only 65,000 miles - is it unusual for a relatively low mileage car to lose it fuel pump?

 

I''m not exactly sure how one tells the difference w/o having both tanks side by side... Sort of breaking it down by the vin...


I was thinking that was pretty low milage for the fuel pump to die.. I would think it should at least last 100K.. But then again the pump took a dump on my 97 at 74,000... I chalked it up as another one of the many electrical problems this particular car has had.. I swear lightning stuck the thing or something...


It really makes me question the quality of cars made from the mid 90''s to present..The Sable has been the first car I''ve had that was newer than 1979.. Bought it when it was 2 years old with 32K on the clock.. I also bought a 96 Grand Marquis at about the same time that has had a few quirks and problems that I felt were too soon in it''s life.. The Sable was to replace my 79 Continental with 330K on it.. Ironically the Lincoln towed the Sable home twice... And now my 07 Ram 3500 is sitting in my garage again.. Replaced the Trans at 41K last month, now at 44K I''ll be replacing all the ball joints... It really makes me want to go back to driving 20 year old "junk" again...

 

It''s no wonder American car manufactures companies are going down the tubes. On the one hand I felt bad for the US workers so I supported the loans to the big three, but on the other hand, if we prop ''em up it just means they can keep screwing their customers.

I bought my 2000 Sable with 48,000 miles and it ran great up until the last 5k miles. I spent $120 having a special vacuum hose diagnosed because I couldn''t find the problem myself. The special hose had to come from the dealer and was $45. The cassette player in my radio went bad so I got one off eBay for $25. Then I spent $60 replacing intake manifold seals and now I''m replacing the fuel pump for $135. I''m beginning to wonder how much this "low mileage" used car is going to cost me over the next year. I half inclined to sell it once I get the fuel pump working.

On the other hand I have friends with Honda''s and Toyota''s that never touched the engine, trans, suspension, etc., until about 150k miles.