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1992 Mercury Sable question...

  #1  
Old 12-29-2007, 06:02 PM
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Can somebody give me some insight on the torque specs for the front head on a 1992 Mercury Sable 3.8L motor??? I bought this Sable just recently, went to replace the head gasket, and Auto Zone gave me the wrong torque specs... I have heard several different ideas about the specs and what they could be, but I do not want to do it until I know the EXACT specs on it... I am pretty sure the long bolts and short bolts are different specs, but not 100% sure... Let me know if anyone has these laying around somewhere.


Chris...


p.s.- The car is rust, dent, scratch, fade free car... The body and interior are immaculate, and it only has 80,000 ORIGINAL miles! Was going to sell off for 800 bucks, but if I can fix it, I might as well just drive it.
 
  #2  
Old 12-30-2007, 04:10 AM
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Again, I strongly recommend to make up your mind first. Sounds like you know how to do the work, so I would certainly consider keeping it around, if it is close to the way you described it.


You seem to have done a lot of work already, I wouldn't give up. These cars have a good reputation, my '92 Taurus had over 300.000 miles on it, 1st engine and transmission, and was still running fine when I sold it.


Regarding the specs, they differ from 1992 through 1994, so you have to make sure you have the right year. In the US, a 1993 model might very well be a true 1992, so different specs apply.


Here are both. Let me know if you need the complete guide. I suppose you know that there are multiple things you have to follow, in order to do the job right, for example using new bolts:


For vehicles through 1994, tighten the cylinder head attaching bolts, in sequence, to the following specifications:
<UL ="disc">
<LI>


Step 1:37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)
<LI>


Step 2:45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
<LI>


Step 3:52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm)
<LI>


Step 4:59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)</LI>[/list]


    When cylinder head attaching bolts have been tightened using the above procedures, it is not necessary to retighten bolts after extended engine operation. However, bolts can be checked for tightness if desired.



    Fig. 14: Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence-3.8L engine


    Greetings!


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      #3  
    Old 01-02-2008, 11:00 AM
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    < src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/>
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    Thanks for the specs, although don't you feel that is a lot of torque to put on that aluminum head into the block??? That is what we did the first time, and did it to the T of what you just read(Got that from the Haines correct?), and it still leaks like a siv... And I know the head is 100% straight, not only did I personally check it, I had a gentlemen check it for me again, and had him redo everything in it(Valves, etc)...


    I don't know, I got a guy coming down to do the work, to see if he has better luck... I just got frustrated with it more or less...
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      #4  
    Old 01-02-2008, 06:10 PM
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    < src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/>
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    Well, I really don't know. I'm relaying to the shop manual, that's all I have.


    There are many specs which seems kinda odd, I personally would trust the shop manual, as this is what the manufacturer issued.


    Are the specs different from what you have been told the first time?


    Greetings!
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      #5  
    Old 01-03-2008, 11:10 AM
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    < src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/>
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    All of the specs listed(Minus the few you gave me), are different... Some say long bolts 37, and short bolts 15, and some manuals mention like you listed it, but in different terms.


    Other than that, for is mentioning 12 short and only 22 long, which just seems a little low personally...


    GRRR!!!! lol... I guess I will just have to try them all, and get a bunch of gaskets and a bunch of stretch bolts. lol... I guess regardless I will figure it out unless someone buys it, which I don't forsee happening soon.


    Chris...
     
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