bleeding the brakes
 

Can I bleed the brakes on my 1996 MGM the conventional way or do I have to do something different due to the ABS? Thanks, Rich W

Bleeding the Brakes
 

Bleed your brakes the conventional way -- Installing a set of RUSSEL SPEED BLEEDERS makes it a one-man job.
Best bet is to bleed out all the old fluid and install D.O.T. 4 Brake Fluid.
The DOT 4 fluid absorbs less water and has a higher boiling point.
Both are available at Amazon.com and/or AutoZone.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mer...e5909a39bb.jpg

If you opened up the system to replace a line, you might have to cycle the ABS. If you are just replacing old fluid, no. I bleed them by myself. I have a piece of wood cut to length so I can wedge it with the brakes pressed and the front seat to hold down the pedal about 2/3's down while I snug up the bleeder screw. Works everytime for for me and no special equipment except a clear pop bottle and clear tubing. Do not press the pedal all the way down, you could possibly damage the piston seals on your master cylinder.

Thanks. on Monday while driving home the pedal went close to the floor. I was still able to stop but barely. When I got into the garage I noticed a big puddle of brake fluid underneath the left side of the car.closer to the front where the Stabilizer bar connects to the body. The MC was empty. I filled it and was able to get a decent pedal. It hasn't gone down since then. I could not find any visible leak. However when I start the car the pedal goes to the floor again. Opinions? Rich W

You have to go over every inch of line and find the leak before doing anything else. There is a leak, they don't fix themselves and until it is repaired, bleeding would be a waste of time and the car should not be on the road till repaired.

In the morning there is a small puddle on the left side underneath the brake pressure control valve block. It's on the floor. I can find no leaks on the 4 outgoing lines or the 2 incoming. Is there something underneath that would leak?

You may have to go feeling around and see where the wetness is.Fluid could be migrating down a line. Nothing should be allowing fluid to escape. If it is wet, that likely is the leak and needs replacing. You might have to have a helper, hold down the pedal while you go looking.

I found the leak. It's on one of the lines coming from the ABS block. Is that difficult for a DIYselfer to replace?

No just tedious. I measure out the length of the original line and buy premade lines and bend them myself to fit. There are a couple different thread sizes so make sure you tell the parts guy where your old line is attached so you can match it up. If it is a long one, you can couple them together with a steel union. You can go with standard steel ot nickle copper which is better for the salt belt and easier to bend. You will have to bleed the brakes when you are done. Make sure you use a line wrench to loosen and tighten the fitting or you can cut the line at the fitting and use a six point socket on the fitting to remove. I hope the other lines a good as they usually are about the same as the one which rusted out. The left front and the ones between the ABS and the master cylinder should be very easy.