Right rear door won't unlock when hitting the unlock switch. All other doors unlock. Child proof lock is left in the unlocked position. When the car is locked, and you hit the unlock button, you can barely see the button move. Could this just be the lock motor has gone out? Is there an adjustment?If I need to replce it, how hard is it? What size are those star bolts that hold the latch on metric or standard? Seems that everything I have is either to big or to small.

Sonds like it is just that door that is acting up. Pull the door skin off, and see what it looks like when you can see the mechanisms at work. Is there anything else acting up in the door? Slow window, etc. Let me know.

Before you spend all the work, try to put some lube around the button. Very often there is dirt/dust accumulated. Just look at it, there's hardly any gapping space in between. You can also cover the surroundings, and try some WD-40.


If above doesn't help, you would have to take the door panel off. It might just be the linkage. Steel rods are moving inside plastic guidances, and the plastic parts wear out.


Let me know if you need the instructions how to do that (door panel).


Greetings!
< src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/>
</>

< =text/>
_uacct = "UA-939292-45";
urchinTracker();
</>

Took the door panel off and everything looks fine. I can feel the actuator try to move when lock/unlocking the door. However, it doesn't feel very strong. My local Ford dealer wants $80 for one. How hard is it to replace it. By the time I stick my hand in the door, I can't see what I'm doing. I see 2 different electric plugs, and I don't want to break them. The manual I have on CD basically just says remove the door ajar switch and remove the actuator.

How come I don't get an email saying a reply has been posted. I have the box checked for replies to be sent and my email address is current?

Thanks,

Took 92Mecury's advice and sprayed all the linkages with silicon lube. So far for the past couple days the lock has been working just fine. Hopefully that's ll it needed.

First of all, great that lubricating helped. Like you said, if it is moving weak, like when the actuator is old and worn out, it helps. It's much easier to move parts when the mechanism easy going.


I know what you mean with getting no notification. Just look at the forum, there are many things wrong with it. Just ignore them, and stop by once in a while. We like that!


Another thing: Yes, the silicon stuff is good for plastic. There is actually special grease (called white powder), simply for plastic gear and moving parts. Available at hobby stores. It's used for plastic gear/differentials/axles for R/C cars.


I use this stuff for plastic, like my odometer gears. It is designed not only for plastic, but also plastic/metal combination.


It worked wonder when the squeezing noise between my steering column and steering wheel was driving me crazy. A bit of this stuff on it, gone!


Greetings!
< src="http://www.google-analytics.com/urchin.js" =text/>
</>

< =text/>
_uacct = "UA-939292-45";
urchinTracker();
</>

92Mercury,

Thanks for the heads up on the white powder. Next time I'm in town, I'm going to stop and get some of that stuff. And yes, the steering wheel in the sable is starting to squeak.

Hey, thanks for the lube advice, haha. I have problems with my locks too. Power windows too. Is there some kind of contact spray that I can use to improve conductivity? Like the stuff they put on spark plugs?