My 95 gm just turned 72k miles and the air pump had been loud since last year when I bought the car. A few weeks ago it just quit and the check air suspensiin light came on. Since the system was behaving ok prior to this I decided to throw in a new Arnott pump. After completing the install the check suspension light no longer came on but it didn't seem like the pump was doing anything. The lines and bags are good since the car sits ok and does not lose air. The day later the check suspension light came back on again after I filled up the gas tank and it has been on and off over the last week. I'm not sure if it's just how the new pump behaves but I no longer hear that noticeable hiss when the system vents and it doest seem like the car lowers much. I have heard the pump run a few times but not much - it's very quiet so maybe I'm missing it. At this point should we start looking into the ride height sensor as the culprit?

 

Yep. Check the ride height adjustment AND the function of the sensor.
If the car "settles" after turning off the ignition, it's a good indicator that there is a leak in the system.
Good luck !!

 

Oddly enough after 2 more days of driving the gremlins seem to have settled down. System seems to be cycling up and down and no return of warning light. Yet... I'm holding my breath...

 

I've found that a great many electrical "gremlins" can be avoided/repaired by simply removing the NEGATIVE battery cable and leaving the car untouched for thirty (30) minutes or so.
This will erase any codes and reset ALL of the computers and circuits, so your system will be "clean" when the battery is re-connected.
After that, any codes that show up should be repaired -- pronto.

 

Thanks I may try that as it has not been done since I bought car last year. I've had issues with radio (no AM) and ETAC also but found the button reset for that. Hey anyone know if the ETAC in 95 had replacable bulbs? I think it works ok otherwise but some buttons are not lit and don't want to send it out for a rebuild if I can just change a bulb. Also would love to know if car can be set so remote opens all doors. I had to replace the remotes with the new style square ones and the normal button tricks don't work on this car to set the unlock all feature.

 

Those burned-out bulbs in the ETAC are a common problem with the big FOMOCO sedans -- and ya can't just "replace the bulbs".
The new units are readily available, but they're an absolute nightmare to replace.
I bought a new Motorcraft (Amazon or Rock Auto) control unit, but haven't gotten around to replacing the "bad one".
No ideas on the remote -- my original remote work perfectly.
Mine is a Motorcraft from Ford -- came with the car.
ONE touch on the remote unlocks the Driver's Door.
TWO touches on the remote opens All Doors.

Exact duplicate Motorcraft remotes are available from Amazon.com

 

Thanks, there are several videos online showing etac removal and a few places I found online that do rebuilds including the lighting. Apparently the newer ones are soldered in bulbs so when they fail you're screwed. On the remotes, I like the newer style square over the orginal long ones that were shot and second push opens all doors but I wanted one push to open all. I had that option on my 04 towncar and 10 fusion. Another feature missing - Is there any way to get the headlights to turn on with the interior lights when you unlock with remote? I have autolamp but only works when driving and I don't think wipers trigger it like the newer cars. Can't find any of this in the original owners manual.