Hey everyone,
New here!

My 2011 Mercury knocks, or sounds like a knock, when starting it cold after it has been sitting for a week or so. It stops after a sec or two. Anyone having this happen to them? Thanks

 

Hello, Glyn, and welcome to the Mercury Forums !!
Your problem's description indicates that your oil filter is draining back into the crankcase, which is usually due to a faulty anti-drainback valve.
When purchasing oil filters, BE SURE that the new filter has a SILICONE Anti-Drainback valve.
The OEM MotorCraft Oil Filter (#FL-820S) has the silicone valve, but the filter's performance did not satisfy my performance criteria.
I use and recommend the Bosch #3410 oil filter -- for price, performance, and availability.

 

Thank you so much for the reply!!!! The drain back is what i was thinking but I always use Motorcraft FL820S filter and Motorcraft 5W20 oil.

 

I will buy the 3410 and try it. I do not like hearing the knocking noise when i start it cold.. seems like the longer between starts, the worse the sound.

 

Yo, Glyn !!
I just got done writing a big-*** reply to your last post -- then it disappeared into the interwebs void :>(

 

oh man! thanks for the effort!

 

I'll hit it again, when I have more time -- if I can remember all the stuff I wrote !!
It had to do with Oil & Oil Filters.
Either or both could cause your start-up "knock".

 

I understand about the anti drain back valve. I always use Motorcraft FL`820S and Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic engine oil.

 

The MotorCraft FL-820S is the OEM filter, and it has the Silicone valve -- but it's got a couple of shortcomings.
1. - 30-micron filtration.
2. - Low pressure relief by-pass spring.
The FL-820S is of marginal quality, and tends to by-pass the filter element, due to the low pressure relief spring.
The FL 820S should be changed at 3,000 miles -- longer change intervals NOT recommended !!
i've found that the Bosch #3410 is a better choice -- 20 micron filter element, higher relief pressure, and it can go 5,000 miles between filter changes.
Also, the Bosch #3410 can be purchased wherever there's a WalMart.
WalMart also has a Full Synthetic motor oil that's comparable to Mobil 1. Meets latest "SN+" specs, and "ILSAC GF-5".
I have never used a "High-Mileage" formula, but now that the '95 MERC has 164,000 miles on the clock, I'll be changing to the "High-Mileage" type.
It's supposed to "rejuvenate" the internal seals and valve seals, too.
Time will tell !!

 

You should have your facts straight.
1. yes the Bosch is rated higher in efficiency compared to the FL820S. If you want the best in efficiency, the Fram Ultra is rated at 99.9% at removing particles sized at 20 microns.
2. Your claim of a lower bypass valve rating in the Motorcraft not correct. According to Bosch's specs, the bypass rating is 8-16 psi. which is very vague.Filter makers match the pressure ratings of the OEM spec.The Motorcraft FL820S is rated at 12 psi. and is a base mounted valve which is better than a dome mounted valve found on the Bosch and most other makes. Why is this better? When the filter goes into bypass which it does on a cold winter start. Oil which is bypassed does so in the base of the filter instead of flowing across the dirty side of the filter media. Some trapped dirt on the media surface will get picked up and sent back into the engine when the filter is in bypass.
3. to say the Motorcraft is only good for 3000 miles is pure nonsense,I run them all the time for 5k miles, cut them open and everything is fine inside..What is supposed to happen after 3k miles? Practically any filter is capable of going 5000 miles.If you want efficiency along with long service life, the Fram Ultra is even more efficient than the Bosch and the manufacturer claims 20k mile service life.I wouldn't run anything that long but a 10k run is very realistic when taking full advantage the longer run times of synthetic.

There is nothing to get excited about with a SN+ rating with oil.To say that Supertech full synthetic is comparable to Mobil 1 without knowing the exact formulations between the two is simply an opinion. SN+ simply means less calcium and more magnesium is formulated in the oil.The spec was developed for low speed detonation issues found with turbocharged engines.Most engines do not fall into that category. The new spec offers no increase in antiwear properties.The best web site for anyone wanting to learn more about their particular oil should check out.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/
I never see any facts with your responses and are misleading, only your factless opinions.