Brrrr
I'm only getting heat about 2 minutes an hour. The coolant flow valve was clicking constantly. Currently I have the climate control out of the dash and could hear the relay just before it switchs from full cold to hot. Which tempted me to smack the entire assembly with the screwdriver. Now it doesn't light up either and nothing happens. No blown fuses over the parking brake.
A new control doesn't fit my unemployment check. Somebody with a wireing diagram tell me how to hotwire the blower, which actuators to put a block of wood in, for heat/defrost and I'll run windows up and down for heat control

Fan motor has a orange wire and a brown/orange wire. Disconnected neither terminal on fan jumped to the battery runs fan. Which wire to the fan should I cut and hook to cigarette lighter. I need to keep looking for work and need some heat Brrrr

 

I've removed the vaccum solenoids from the control , and hardwired them for heat/defrost, I able to hardwire the fan to wide open, but cannot find anything to get to coolant flow valve. I've run out of vacumm hoses at the control box so it must be electric, any ideas without riping the dash apart to actually get to the valve????????
Brrrrrr, cold in the driveway

 

check the heater hoses for the flow control. I'm not sure about the newer cars, but on the older ones, the control is vacuum actuated. check the vacuum line from the flow control to make sure it's ok all the way to the other end. Also, check for other vacuum leaks. If worse comes to worse, try getting a hold of an inverter and small electric heater.

 

that darn flow control is in inside the dash, doesn't look like it comes out from engine side either
Has been making a clicking sound for about a year, went away if you set climate control within 1 degree of interior temp. Had a different pitch to the click depending on up or down temp. Before I blew up the control you could feel the water pressure in the hose bump when the valve clicked, if I can find out enough about this flow control, will remove heater hose and see about maneuvering the flapper inside

Inverter? that would be a big inverter
Used to have a 12 volt electric heater in my van, 30 amp fuse, wasn't enough to defrost windshield, hanging in the middle by my head

 

since it's cold anyhow. why not bypass the flow control valve. You can always put it all back together when you get the funds to fix it proper. a short piece of copper pipe that fits inside the hoses and the clamps from the control valve and you'll be set. Granted, you'll have full on heat at all times after that, so you may have to be conservative with the fan on longer drives, but it should work.

 

unfortunatly its in the dash and inaccessable
Was hopeing someone would remember the flapper is accessable from inside the tube from under the hood

 

I'm used to the older cars. Those parts were more easily accessed. Haven't dealt with the newer models (after 93 actually). It's really disappointing to find out that the newer models are that problematic to work with.

 

I'm really disappointed they have resorted to making it so hard to work on yourself.
And with stealership labor rates, I think its a plot to force us out of our older cars into some newer american branded unit. Notice I did not say made in USA.
I've caught reference to the new ford transit being made in turkey, as a wagon. Shipped to the states, seats removed, windows replaced with steel, because the import taxes on passenger vehicles is that much cheaper. Seats and windows are scrapped, shipping back is more expensive then tossing.On the Sprinter site it's referred to a chicken tax. Of course Sprinters are final assembled here also, TAX EVASION again.

 

There isn't that much difference between new vehicles and older Luxury vehicles for the ACC system.

Understand this concept.

1) If one heater hose is hot and the temperature gauge reads normal after 15 minutes of engine operation..The T-stat is NOT the problem

2) If both heater hoses are hOT, the heater core is NOT the problem.

3) An 88 Lincoln has an interior temperature monitoring device located in the air flow duct. If this goes faulty..you won't get cool air for AC, the system defaults to the HEATER thus giving all sorts of heat

4) As I just discovered in my NEW 92 Grand Marquis (65,000 KM's) I can olose heat in heartbeat and did.

My focus is on the blend door because that is what directs HEAT to interior.

My heater hoses are both hot
My heater blower works appropriately for all functions
My vacuum actuating heater control works for all functions

People need to learn and remember basic principles in these cars.

There is no real vehicle "Computer related" issues for the climate system.
It is all done with sensors,vacuum motors and doors....that are directly related to other specific mechanical devices

I suggest that a vacuum motor or a leaking or unplugged vacuum hose to move the blend door is the main problem here.