Apologies Tripper. Must've missed your other notifications. If you're getting a cylinder overtemp signal the computer is putting the engine into a type of "save" mode where the the cylinders alternately become air pumps by having the injector signals stopped. It helps keep the engine cool enough to hopefully not damage the aluminum heads but you'll lose mucho power. Also the cooling fans stay on & the A/C compressor clutch wont engage. I don't think the CHT code will be erased from memory by disconnecting the battery. Now I'm wondering if your getting some coolant leakage into one or more cylinders via the intake. Had that happen on cars & it would start running bad after the T-stat opened. Could also be a head gasket or head. Is the upper rad hose getting firm after reaching operating temp? Also if your using a tee when flushing, remove the T'stat & reinstall the housing before you do the flush or the T'stat will stay closed & the engine will not get flushed. Best way is a flushing tee [5/8" IIRC] in one of the heater hoses. Do that at least every other spring & put in a new T-stat. These cars are bad about the coolling system becoming electricaly charged, causing corrosion usually in the heater core. Ferd attributes it to improper flushing & the rust inside the system but we've had cars that start getting heater cores every 3 months. Not an easy, quick job. Maybe 1 out of 10 cars in our fleet will develop this problem. We put more heater cores than that but as far as repeats on the same car? That's reletively rare. Aslo I've seen the heater hose over #4 cylinder leaking onto the coil causing a misfire but that's usually constant once the coolant gets down in the coil boot bore. Aslo a misfiring coil can cause crazy things to happen. The electricity has to go somewhere & take the path of least resistance which is usually the engine ground. Well that ground is associated with all the other grounds & can make lights come on that shouldn't be as well as the power loss you're writing about.

 

That's some good advice. I have the tee spliced into my hose that goes into the heater core but I didn't think to remove then replace the thermostat. Ill do it again in a few days in the way you suggested. The light popped back on again today for like 10 seconds. I will give the upper radiator hose a feel and report back how it feels. Ill also check my #4 cylinder for leakage. If I don't find anything there what else could it be? I almost want to just replace every coil but that's a lot of money. Maybe ill just buy one and replace my #5 coil since it was the original problem.

 

Ok so I finally gave in and bought a new coil pack from autozone for $50. I made sure to surround the boot and connections with marine grade dielectric grease. Its been about a week and the cars is back to normal. All I can guess is before the car was still misfiring causing an overheat. Thanks for the help. Problem solved.

 

When the CEL flashes it means there is a catalyst damaging misfire taking place......

Term papers

 

I know, if you look back in the thread someone already said that, but my issue became an over heating problem which ended up being a result of the misfire.

 

I had a similar problem in mine. It was a cylinder misfire. What happened is the left valve cover started leaking oil on the back. It caused cylinder number 8 (which is the cylinder on the back of the block on the driver side) the boot swelled and let oil down in the space with the spark plug. Ended up taxing the coil pack too much and took it out. The misfire started on a rainy day for me as well. I have since then replaced all the boots and electrodes, and that coil pack. The problem hasn't arose since, and I was my motor about every month, and the problem still hasn't arose. If it is an oil leak, i would suggest adding Lucas Oil Stabalizer to your oil next time you change it and run it in there from now on. If it is a leak, that will seal it up. Hope this helped