VIbration in OD on 89
#1
I have an 89 marquis. All the gears shift fine up to top gear in Over Drive , then when it gets to the top gear I feel a moderate vibration. IT lasts through the low rpms then stops .
Anybody have an idea what the problem is .
Thanks is Advance friends.
Anybody have an idea what the problem is .
Thanks is Advance friends.
#2
have you checked "U" joints? have you ever changed out the transmission cable plastic grommet on the car where cable connects to throttlebody. if not, you will burn up the transmission. best to get the plastic grommet replaced with the Ford brass bushing that you will never need to worry about. in OD you will notice problems with engine also in this case it might end up being a tune up is necessary. here is a pic of the brass bushing installed on my car...
[img]uploads/87CrownVic/Picture_014.jpg[/img]
[img]uploads/87CrownVic/Picture_014.jpg[/img]
#3
Thanks a bunch for the quick reply.
Is there anything special I need to know about installing the brass bushing? Will the cable need re-adjusting?
y
Also in response to noticing engine problems in OD, I agree, and I think that may be what it is. I Know I have a lifter tapping rather loudly. I was thinking about having the lifters adjusted, and maybe the bad one replaced. I was going to check on prices for that, but I really don't know what a descent price for that is.
Either way I am going to change that bushing, can I get it at any auto store.
Thanks Again
Yugi
Is there anything special I need to know about installing the brass bushing? Will the cable need re-adjusting?
y
Also in response to noticing engine problems in OD, I agree, and I think that may be what it is. I Know I have a lifter tapping rather loudly. I was thinking about having the lifters adjusted, and maybe the bad one replaced. I was going to check on prices for that, but I really don't know what a descent price for that is.
Either way I am going to change that bushing, can I get it at any auto store.
Thanks Again
Yugi
#4
go to a Ford dealer's part dept and ask for part number... F3SZ-7H303-Bno need for adjustments
if you havent done any kinda work to your car... i sugest the following to be done....
fuel filter
tune-up(plugs, wires, accel cap and rotor kit)
get an oil change done with 10w40 5 qts even
(it will read high or low depending on car... but it has a double sump pan that oil needs distributed between for best reading)
get a PCV valve, and the screen/filter for it hiding under it that nobody changes
if you want CAI like in my picture, go to EBAY and it costs about $30 after shipping...(look for a acura integra cai from '90-'93... you will need to cut about 6-8 inches off each end to fit right)
i always bypass the hose to my EGR spacer so that if the gasket goes bad, the engine isnt sucking in coolant thru the intake
i would unbolt the throttle body and EGR spacer to clean the crap out of the inside of it since it can mess with the Idle Air Control valveEdited by: 87_Crown_Vic
if you havent done any kinda work to your car... i sugest the following to be done....
fuel filter
tune-up(plugs, wires, accel cap and rotor kit)
get an oil change done with 10w40 5 qts even
(it will read high or low depending on car... but it has a double sump pan that oil needs distributed between for best reading)
get a PCV valve, and the screen/filter for it hiding under it that nobody changes
if you want CAI like in my picture, go to EBAY and it costs about $30 after shipping...(look for a acura integra cai from '90-'93... you will need to cut about 6-8 inches off each end to fit right)
i always bypass the hose to my EGR spacer so that if the gasket goes bad, the engine isnt sucking in coolant thru the intake
i would unbolt the throttle body and EGR spacer to clean the crap out of the inside of it since it can mess with the Idle Air Control valveEdited by: 87_Crown_Vic
#5
forgot to say... the PCV valve is a lil tough to get at behind the upper intake. if you lean over the engine from passenger side, look for the 2 bolts that hold the upper intake on by guiding you hand down the back of it. behind the upper intake sticking out of the lower just behind the upper intake bolts is the PCV valve. the screen/filter is deeper in there and will need to use a pair of long needle nose, or run a screw in it and pull it out using the screw. many times the screen/filter under the PCV valve is filled with carbon and cant breathe. if you feel ambitious to take off the upper intake and paint or swap out with a HO upper, it is easier to access the PCV valve.
i have a few other pictures of some of the other Panther platform cars we have and what i have done under the hood if you need more info.
i have a few other pictures of some of the other Panther platform cars we have and what i have done under the hood if you need more info.
#6
As of right now the car is in operable. It out of nowhere overheated on a short trip. I believe it may have blown the head gasket. Im not sure what happened because the water pump is not weeping or leaking and
it ran fine before. It was a $600 car, so you get what you pay for I guess.
Right now I am trying to figure out if I have to disconnect the drive shaft to pull it 15 miles. Im afraid of frying the transmission.
The car had a tuneup (oil, oil filter, air filter) I hadn't checked the plugs yet but the wires were new.
I am alluding to the Idea that the EGR as you said above may have had something to do with it.
As of now I want to tow it home, maybe to the shop first for a $20 opinion. Then I am going to buy a book, pull the head, take the head to get leak checked, and if so planed then reinstall with a new head gasket. If any of the valves are screwed or if the bottom end is especially harmed I am gonna pull and junk the engine.
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it ran fine before. It was a $600 car, so you get what you pay for I guess.
Right now I am trying to figure out if I have to disconnect the drive shaft to pull it 15 miles. Im afraid of frying the transmission.
The car had a tuneup (oil, oil filter, air filter) I hadn't checked the plugs yet but the wires were new.
I am alluding to the Idea that the EGR as you said above may have had something to do with it.
As of now I want to tow it home, maybe to the shop first for a $20 opinion. Then I am going to buy a book, pull the head, take the head to get leak checked, and if so planed then reinstall with a new head gasket. If any of the valves are screwed or if the bottom end is especially harmed I am gonna pull and junk the engine.
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#7
if you pull the engine... try to find a 97 Explorer/Mountaineer engine and go to a junkyard and get a Mark 7 computer/brain. swap out the brackets from bad motor on front to the Explorer engine. (alternator, powersteering, etc.) the Explorer/Mountaineer engine is an HO and has better piston connecting rods, better injectors, better cylinder heads. you will need the brain box for either that engine or go to junkyard from a Lincoln Mark 7 with a HO in it. the brain box is located on passenger side in front of door on side behind the plastic kick panel. firing order on a HO is same as a 351W if i remember right. best place to find one at a decent rate for the engine is here...
http://car-part.com/
enter in for a 97 Explorer with 5.0L w/o exhaust hole in manifold. usually you can find an engine for about $400 or so. hope everything works out.
http://car-part.com/
enter in for a 97 Explorer with 5.0L w/o exhaust hole in manifold. usually you can find an engine for about $400 or so. hope everything works out.
#8
I found a grand marquis close by that an old man bought for his wife, it was parked back in the day at 54,000 miles . Im getting this running engine with 54,000 for $300. IM using the block and head and the rest Is going to be from my car. Im paying around 600 to have it installed. Its gonna cot me 900 all together , $600 dollar car turns in to 1500 dollar car. I thought about trying to do it myself , but the intake swap and everything is too daunting.
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