After spending $800 a few years ago to fix A/C it started blowing hot air again. I found a forum which gave me the following fix (which I need to use every so often): On the temp control panel, press the Off button while pressing the down arrow floor air button; wait 2 seconds, then press (separately) the Auto button. A code will read out on lcd - then magically the A/C works. In the meantime, I'm saving for a new car -- have to research a 2-door hatchback (not too small -- not too big) Do you recommend anything? I bucked all the way to work this morning -- humidity seems to play a role. Anyway ..... I'm trying to get every last mile out of this car -- it's been good to me .... take care.

 

Hyundai's and Kia's are pretty good cars and have a 10 year/100,000 mile warranty - can hardly go wrong. That's what I would buy if I was going to buy something new.

 

My dad just bought a used 04 Sable LS with only 55,000 miles on it. We took it to Florida for a long weekend. over 800 miles each way. Ran great. On way home the Trans went out in N.C. on I-95. We got it towed into town and we had to spend 3 days there while it was rebuilt. Everything in the trans went out except the Electronics. $2,100 later as a cash deal we were on our way. Ran great rest of the trip. After home My dad noticed it started with the bucking going up the hills. He took it to the dealer and their saying all the coils need to be replaced. They all have hairline cracks in them. They are saying it will cost close to $1,700 to fix it. I really feel bad for my Dad at this point.

 

The coils are really easy to replace and are not that expensive to purchase from an auto parts store - you could do this yourself and save a lot of money. First, check each one with an ohm meter and look them over for hairline cracks. If no cracks and they check good with an ohm meter, they don't need to be replaced. They usually don't all go bad at they same time. Good luck.

Also, I'm sorry to hear about the tranny problem... I'm experiencing the same thing right now with my 2005 F-150. It only has 57K, has never pulled a trailer, and the tranny started slipping. They finished rebuilding it today and I will pick it up tomarrow - the bill: $2300.

 

I have the same problem. At first, was the Autolamp would turn on just the parking lights, but not the headlights. I have been using the manual.

Now, in AUTOLAMP mode on, it has the inside lights on all the time (dashboard, radio, etc). But no headlights.

Have tried to trace relays. And if the GEM, I am just going to ride it out.

Were you able to get this resolved.

 

Sorry, but no.

Ours started working again on its own and has been fine for some time now, but just recently is doing it again. I haven't messed with it, and like you have just been using the manual switch. I read in another forum where someone actually split the case open on the fuse panel and replaced the relay inside.

 

Hi everyone, and especially mtnlovrs - I've got an '02 Sable with a DOHC that has been having issues somewhat similar...and like you, I've been lately throwing a small fortune of parts at it. On the plus side I do the work myself, which saves a bundle, but on the downside, I still haven't pinned down the issue. Here's what's been happening:

It started with intermittent stalling and very rough idling and running, but this was all very intermittent - sometimes it ran great. Took it to a Ford dealership and they didn't experience a problem. The next day it started acting up again. After buying an OBD-II Bluetooth adapter and a $6 program on my Android phone, I was able to diagnose the fuel pressure sensor on the fuel-rail as the source of the problem. With a dial-gauge connected and the system holding steady pressure, I saw the computer's readings start dancing around...with the engine off!! I thought Ford would be able to diagnose something so simple, but no such matter. Anyway, it was a $150 part I think, and an easy fix. But then things got worse. I started having some misfires on cylinder 3. I did a routine tune-up, and it didn't help. To make matters worse, I watched my Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) crank right up to 25%, and started receiving a code for Too Lean on both cylinder banks. So, now it looks like I have a vacuum leak somewhere. But I have no clue where is left...

I've replaced the MAF, the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets about four times now (and even hit them with fuel-resistant flexible gasket sealer - DON'T DO THIS, It's a bad idea with these plastic manifolds!), the TBI gasket, the IAC valve and gasket, the injectors and their o-rings, every vacuum hose, the PCV valve, the crankshaft position sensor, cylinder-3's spark plug, the EGR tube (my fault - snapped a stud off the old one), EGR valve... Nothing has helped the LTFT issue, or the reports of occasional misfires (always on cyl 3). I do seem to hear a hissing noise somewhere around the intake manifold, but it's a bugger to locate. I'm even starting to wonder if the manifold is cracked! I've done a compression test, and cyl 3 came up a little low, but the engine wasn't hot and I may have not had the tester's fitting in tight enough, so I'll be doing another one of those soon.

In other testing, I have noticed that the reported fuel pressure and the dial-gauge's pressure readings are about 10 psi off - which is HUGE considering the gauge is running low. There's a vacuum line running to the fuel pressure sensor - when I remove it, the readings equalize; but if there's a vacuum leak, one would wonder if that's what's throwing off the readings.

I'm not crazy about the thought of replacing a head-gasket, for all the work it will take (and the cost - might as well do a full engine rebuild while I'm at it!). Anyone's thoughts or suggestions would be very happily received. The above list of things I've done is also not exhaustive, I'm sad to say. I've pretty much done all the _easy_ stuff already (filters, oils, etc). I do not know where else to turn.

 

Wow! You didn't leave me much. Let's see; there's a vacuum reservoir in the right wheel well behind the plastic inner well liner. Sometimes the vacuum lines going to this reservoir get pulled off, especially if you've ever had a blow-out on that wheel. Have you checked your spark plug cables? They should be less than 10K ohms each (the closer to 5 or 6K ohms, the better). Have you checked or replaced your coil pack? A hair-line crack in the epoxy or in the plastic housing between the towers can cause a miss or rough idling. Other than those items, the only other thing I can think of is a bad computer (or going bad). I still haven't fixed mine, so any ideas for my problem would also be greatly appreciated.

 

After going through this for a year and half (& saving up for a down payment on a new car), I decided to bring it in to someone who's never worked on it -- I just said -- "the check engine light is on" -- that's it. When I picked up the car the mechanic said it was a spark plug and wire. It's been running perfectly ever since -- no bucking!!!! (two months now!). Think I'll get a new kitchen floor instead.

 

Thanks, mtnlovrs, for the info! I'll check it out as soon as I get time to put the car back on stands and pull the liner off. Ya know, it's almost funny, when i bought the car it had deteriorating vacuum lines, and the more of them I replaced the worse the problem seemed to get! Correlation? I really can't be sure. But I'm planning on doing some more diagnostics in an attempt to pin this thing down. It's been a couple weeks since I've had a chance to get under the hood.

The rough engine has gotten worse. It's rather rough at idle almost constantly now, rather slow to respond to acceleration requests and then stutters almost throughout the acceleration range. Cruising is the smoothest time. IF my computer isn't crazy, there is still a high probability of a major vacuum leak. Aside from checking the part you specified, I plan on affixing a small piece of smooth plywood where the throttle body goes (attaching it directly to the intake manifold), and hooking an air-hose to it with about 10psi of air pressure - engine off, of course. It's just too hard to find these "leaks" with the noise of the engine running. I've been through some of the Ford diagnostic procedures, but unfortunately everything seems to start with "fix all vacuum leaks, then check for other problems."

As far as the plug wires, I checked #3 a few weeks ago, and it was reportedly in good shape. I'll check again, and perhaps swap the wires for 2 and 3 just to see what happens. I'd love to get my hands on a coil-pack tester, rather than replacing the thing outright, but perhaps an inspection will yield some information. I've heard that a bad throttle position sensor can cause lots of grief, but I'm loath to up and replace it, especially when the OBD-II readings I get from mine appear smooth and precise.

What diagnostic tools do you have available? I've been using this tool with my Android phone: http://torque-bhp.com/

You would need to purchase a separate adapter to connect up with your car, but the app has been already useful in pinning down the fuel rail pressure sensor. Unfortunately I got ahead of myself in up and replacing lots o parts, rather than studying the problem more carefully. One unfortunate thing about the app is that it doesn't run some of the more advanced tests available with these car computers, and the OBD-II adapter I have doesn't seem to handle the advanced Ford sensor readings (like injector fault detection codes and the like). My thinking would be that you might find benefit in locating a mechanic who has a very advanced scan-tool and having him ride along with it attached to the car, while you demonstrate the problem. The information he should be able to obtain may help diagnose the true problem. (The really advanced scan tools run between $1000 and $10,000 - the thing I bought cost about $100 total so far, so you get what you pay for I guess).

Ford has a Power Train and Emissions Diagnostic manual (PTED) specifically for pinpointing problems like this, but it can be very difficult to follow without robust scanning equipment and some additional testing tools. It can be read online for a subscription fee, which is a substantial savings as opposed to purchasing the book outright.