The computer was changed in December as was the Thermostat. The Serpentine belt, Tensioner pully housing, Radiator and radiator hoses top and bottom were all replaced last month. The temperature guage fluctuates but stays in normal range. I figured there was air in the cooling system but I don't know where to find the bleeder valve. I am just hoping that this isn't the cause of this problem. I was driving the my car on Monday and just all of the sudden it died. There was no symptoms of anything wrong. The engine turns over fine but the fuel pump doesn't come on at all. I hear a click but no hum. I replaced the Control Module Relay but that didn't fix the problem. I would like to know before I drop my gas tank to replace the fuel pump if there is anything else I should check that could be causing the problem. I am going BROKE with this car but I love it. Please help any would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.

 

First thing that comes to mind is check for power to the fuel pump. Got a volt meter? Check the fuse too.

Check for fuel pressure too. Richpin06a on Youtube has some good d-i-y vids on troubleshooting EFI.

 

For some reason, the car just started on it's own. The fuel pump is huming like it is supposed to. I just don't get it. I have checked the power and I am getting sufficent power to the fuel pump. I am totally stumped. I have fuel at the rail. It just works when it wants to. IDK what else to do. Like I said before. When driving down the road it just dies. And won't start back. just turns over. Then it cant sit for a while and start back. I am so confused. I don't know where to start.

 

I notice you said that you changed the computer, but didn't say why. But this sounds like a new problem. When you said you changed the computer, did you replace it with a new or rebuilt unit, or did u replace it with a used one? If you replaced it with a used one, & this problem is a new one, maybe u got a bad one.

Did you check for codes?

When it won't restart, try shutting the key off & then turn the key on without trying to start it. You should hear the fuel pump run for a second or two if it is working. If you don't, I would suspect it.

If you do hear it, check for fuel pressure & you have pressure, I would look elsewhere.

The computer will also shut the fuel pump off if it loses the signal from the engine to tell that it is running. You may have ignition problem.

 

The computer was changed because it was bad causing the car to not start. The Fuel pump and electric fan would just run constantly. It was replaced with a brand new one. Not rebuilt or used. I am not getting any codes when checked. Because I don't know how to re-inact the problem. But when the car will start there is no problems and no codes. I have to wait until it does it again so I can check for codes. I do have fuel at the rail and good pressure. The fuel pump does run for a few seconds. I just don't know where to go from here.

 

I'm wondering if your sable has the 3.0 engine & if it does, I think it has what is called a "Thick Film Ignition" also known as TFI. If you have it, it would be located on the side of the distributor, & they are famous for doing what you are describing. The fuel pump quits because the computer loses the ignition signal.

I would try replacing that. I know there was a class action law suit about it which Ford made some kind of settlement. If you have this TFI, I would check with Ford & see if they have a recall for it. If you have the TFI that is very good bet that it is your problem.

They fail from heat. They cool off then they may work again & go for just for a moment or maybe days until it does it again. You don't get a code because the computer thinks you just shut the key off.

 

Thank you for getting back to me about my car. I am going to test the TFI/ICM first thing tomorrow. I have been researching the TFI Module/ICM for the past few hours. A lot of the stories sound just like mine. So I called the local Auto store and they said to bring it up there tomorrow morning and they would test it for free. Still a expensive part but hopefully it may end this night mare. But I guess I still need to figure why the car is heating to over 247 causing the ICM to kick off. Could it be air in the coolant system if so how do I bleed it? I did change the radiator and hoses recently.

 

I would just replace the TFI. When the car runs, they often can pass the test. They only fail the test if the car won't run & it is the culprit. The problem is Ford picked a bad location, & it gets hot & fails. The mid 1970's Chryslers were famous for ignition module failures, & owners learn to carry a spare in the car. I had a 1972 Chrysler that would just quit, & when the module cooled off it would restart.

On your cooling problem, for bleeding, I just look for the high point, ofter a heater hose connection, & remove it while filling the radiator, & when coolant comes out, reconnect the hose. But there are other causes, like does the fan come on, is the radiator clogged with rust etc. Other things like a blown head gasket, but if that is the case, there are usually other engine problems that make themselves known, like rough running, losing coolant, white steam from the exhaust on warm days.

 

I would like to know before I drop my gas tank to replace the fuel pump if there is anything else I should check that could be causing the problem. I am going BROKE with this car but I love it. Please help any would be appreciated. Thank you for your time.