Okay, well I tried that and it didn't work. Any other suggestions are appreciated. I've tried everything. Its going to be about 75$ in labor if I take it to a shop to remove this stupid screw, so I'm not giving up yet.

 

good luck. let us know how it goes.

 

I am having a VERY hard time. After talking with multiple people, this will be the end of my car if I can't get it off. Like I said, its rounded off a bit, but not extreme or anything and is not stripped out. If I bring it to a mechanic, they will most likely have to completely take the engine out and snake drill it out which is to much. I have tried wrenches, ratchets, vice grips, liquid wrench, everything.

What I am going to try next is a new wrench (One i was using was kinda old) Needle nose vice grips (doubt that will work) more lubricant, muscle and this time I will raise the car. I've been working on it hugged up against the road and I'm thinking if I get a little bit more space to work in, I will get some more leverage. Any suggestions to solve this problem is appreciated!

On a side note, I love this!

 

The only suggestion I have left is to make sure you're cranking it the right direction. It should be counterclockwise to loosen it. Since you got the other bolt out, I doubt this is the problem though. The only other thing I would try (because I have friends with impact tools) is to use an impact tool to get it out... that is if the socket will grab what's left of the head.

 

I've got a quick question. My car is an automatic. I want to jack it up but its partially parked on a curb. Is there a way to put it into neutral because if its off it won't let me and since the starter is not functioning, I can't turn it on. I just want to manually push it just about a foot off of the curb.

 

yeah... you just need to turn the key so it will come out of park. you should be able to move it in neutral. just be ready to hit the brakes to stop it. that large of a car will get a good head of steam going without you really noticing.

 

Haha, my mistake I completely didn't realize that. Here is what I did today- put the car in neutral, moved it for about 20 minutes until I got it in the desired position, Put the car on a jack, 3 pillars of bricks to support it and gave the screw hell. It still didn't budge. I went and looked at the new starter. I realized, if I could wiggle the connection on the bad starter, it might make a good enough connection to start, for a while until I can find a way to get the bolt off and put the new starter in. It worked!! I started it up about 5 times, and it works for now, and I have yet another idea to take that old bolt off. I found a compound that freezes the bolt, then you spray the penetrate into it. I'm going to drive my car home, give that a try and I'll get back to all of the basic overheating issues. Thanks for the help!!

 

umm... i am guessing you were using 12 point wrench/socket on the bolt holding the starter. when a 12 point starts to want to spin and round the bolt, get a 6 point instead. i use a 2 foot extension and 6 point socket to get at some bolts that are in tight areas. even if you took to a shop, they wouldnt have to remove engine to get the bolt out. the would use an impact socket and knocket it on there and get it off the starter.

 

About 1 out of every 20 Ford products I wrench on seems to get the dreaded siezed starter bolt.. A half cent worth of never siece would have eliminated the issue of a steel bolt in aluminum.. Oh well

87_Crown_Vic's suggestion 6 point impact socket would be the way to go.. Make sure it's a 1/2" socket and not 13mm (1/2" fits slightly tighter). Hammer it on the head if you have to... The freeze stuff does work well and can;t hurt..

If you can get your hands on some sort of torch (even a small hand held one will work) heat the area of the bell housing where the bolt screws in, then (AFTER TURNING THE TORCH OFF) spray the area with the penetrating whatnot.. AS the area cools sometimes this will help draw the oil in and loosen it up... Be wary of things that could burn when doing this, especially if you have leaky valve covers...

Almost worst case scenario you may have to bum a grinder and grind the head off the bolt to get the starter out.. That shoudl still leave you enough bolt to get a GOOD pair of vice grips on.. Soak the living crap out of it and hope for the best... (the heating thing as mentioned above can help here too) Worst case scenario you'll have to drill the darned thing out.. But it rarely comes to that...

 

Well I finally broke down and took it to fire stone, it was 55$ to remove and replace it, not to bad at all but still.. I'm a little sad about it after spending 5 hours of trying. I'll get a picture of the bolt up later, you'll probably rofl at it. Moving on, I'm going to address the heating and air conditioning problems. I'm going to start with the radiator flush and hose check which I look forward to. I've got just a quick question about that, when you say flush, do you mean pumping something through the system to help clean it? I'm kind of confused about that and if you could elaborate I would appreciate for a noob. I'll also replace the thermostat and learn how to check the water pump. For the air conditioning system, after only a few minutes of being turned on and then turned off, the air conditioning accumulator makes a pretty bad sizzling noise like its under a lot of stress. Its very rusted and extremely old looking, but then again what isn't. This doesn't look to hard, just expensive. If I understand correctly which I probably don't, I basically remove the inlet and outlet lines and the mounting bolts, add more refrigerant oil to the new accumulator, install the new accumulator, tighten the mounting brackets, reinstall the inlet and outlet lines, and then have the system somehow evacuated recharged and leak tested by a dealer? Anything I left out? All of your guys' help is really appreciated. Thank you very much!