multi-switch / headlight problem
#1
12-25-2012, 07:16 PM
multi-switch / headlight problem
1990 (mfg date 11/89) Mercury Grand Marquis, 5L, MFI, loaded
Cut to the chase: what is the correct multi-switch (dimmer) for this vehicle? O-Reilly's says (and gave me) a BWD #S3217. I think it is wrong. Now the story:
About a year ago the brights began going out (all lights out). Switching to dims brought them back. Thinking it was the multi-switch, I bought another. A previous vehicle ('79 Toro) had a similar problem that turned out to be the multi-switch partially melting. As it was near the end of winter and I had little time, I put the switch in the trunk and drove on dims. Friday, on the way home for Christmas weekend (of course) the lights started going off entirely. Fiddling with multi-switch got me home. I could hear a clicking behind the dash as they turned on and off. I have since read that the problem may be the headlight switch (WAH). The wah is because I replaced the multi-switch and disassembled the old one to diagnose problem. All I found was some carbon blacking on the contacts. This switch is built much better than the Toro switch. I see no evidence of plastic melting.
Anyway, problem now is that I now have daytime running lights (didn't before), and the battery drains overnight. Disconnecting the battery and putting an ammeter in series, I get a 1 amp drain with doors shut, no key in ignition, trunk shut, and hood bulb unplugged. Oh yeah, when I say I have daytime running lights, it doesn't matter whether the headlight switch is pushed in or pulled out (yes, old style) the lights come on as soon as the key is turned and will not turn off (key out, waited over a minute) until the battery is disconnected (stay off after battery re-connected until key turned on). The only thing I have done during this project has been to remove the old switch and replace it with the new.
I suspect I was given the wrong switch (ya think). I am thinking about getting a battery cutout switch tomorrow so I can drive to work (30 miles each way) and not have battery drain down while at work, but am concerned that the incorrect switch may cause other problems.
HELP!!!
Really, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Roy
Cut to the chase: what is the correct multi-switch (dimmer) for this vehicle? O-Reilly's says (and gave me) a BWD #S3217. I think it is wrong. Now the story:
About a year ago the brights began going out (all lights out). Switching to dims brought them back. Thinking it was the multi-switch, I bought another. A previous vehicle ('79 Toro) had a similar problem that turned out to be the multi-switch partially melting. As it was near the end of winter and I had little time, I put the switch in the trunk and drove on dims. Friday, on the way home for Christmas weekend (of course) the lights started going off entirely. Fiddling with multi-switch got me home. I could hear a clicking behind the dash as they turned on and off. I have since read that the problem may be the headlight switch (WAH). The wah is because I replaced the multi-switch and disassembled the old one to diagnose problem. All I found was some carbon blacking on the contacts. This switch is built much better than the Toro switch. I see no evidence of plastic melting.
Anyway, problem now is that I now have daytime running lights (didn't before), and the battery drains overnight. Disconnecting the battery and putting an ammeter in series, I get a 1 amp drain with doors shut, no key in ignition, trunk shut, and hood bulb unplugged. Oh yeah, when I say I have daytime running lights, it doesn't matter whether the headlight switch is pushed in or pulled out (yes, old style) the lights come on as soon as the key is turned and will not turn off (key out, waited over a minute) until the battery is disconnected (stay off after battery re-connected until key turned on). The only thing I have done during this project has been to remove the old switch and replace it with the new.
I suspect I was given the wrong switch (ya think). I am thinking about getting a battery cutout switch tomorrow so I can drive to work (30 miles each way) and not have battery drain down while at work, but am concerned that the incorrect switch may cause other problems.
HELP!!!
Really, any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
Roy
#2
12-26-2012, 07:12 PM
BWD S3217 is a Bidirectional Signal Switch(turn signal switch), your problem is likely the
headlight switch, part # S2278, made by BWD. These go out on many GM's of that year/age and will cause different sorts of headlight lighting/not lighting problems. Make sure you examine the new one, for no signs of previous usage or that has been dropped.
headlight switch, part # S2278, made by BWD. These go out on many GM's of that year/age and will cause different sorts of headlight lighting/not lighting problems. Make sure you examine the new one, for no signs of previous usage or that has been dropped.
Last edited by EddieE; 12-28-2012 at 08:27 AM.
#3
12-26-2012, 11:43 PM
WOW! Thanks EddieE. Great info. Additional testing today showed that you are probably correct. I found out this morning on another forum that I did indeed have 'Auto lighting' (hang my head, never knew it was there) and that turning the back **** would get rid of what I thought was 'wierd' jheadlight activity. Seems I was given the correct switch but didn't need to replacfe it.
The battery drain problem doesn't seem to be related.
Did the 'pull the fuses' thing. Turns out the battery drain has nothing to do with the headlights. WTF? Is it possible that the battery drained overnight for some other reason? Would a 2 amp draw (actually 1.85) normally drain a good battery overnight? The following was done with the key off and out, the negative battery cable disconnected, and an ammeter in series between the negative battery terminal and the end of the negative cable.
Pulling the fuses showed that:
0.2 amps were going to fuse #16 - Yellow - 20 amp
- Front cig lighter
- Horn
1.6 amps were going to Fuse #8 - Blue - 20 Amp
-courtesy lamps
-chime for keys in ignition
-chime for headlamps on
-clock
-illuminated entry module
-visor mirror lamps (also 2 amp fuse in visor)
-outside power mirrors
-dome lamp
-heated windshield
-glove box lamp
-engine compartment lamp
-luggage compartment lamp
Any ideas what to check first? Current plan is to replace headlight switch and pull the fuse whenever I am stopped for any length of time.
Thanks.
Roy
The battery drain problem doesn't seem to be related.
Did the 'pull the fuses' thing. Turns out the battery drain has nothing to do with the headlights. WTF? Is it possible that the battery drained overnight for some other reason? Would a 2 amp draw (actually 1.85) normally drain a good battery overnight? The following was done with the key off and out, the negative battery cable disconnected, and an ammeter in series between the negative battery terminal and the end of the negative cable.
Pulling the fuses showed that:
0.2 amps were going to fuse #16 - Yellow - 20 amp
- Front cig lighter
- Horn
1.6 amps were going to Fuse #8 - Blue - 20 Amp
-courtesy lamps
-chime for keys in ignition
-chime for headlamps on
-clock
-illuminated entry module
-visor mirror lamps (also 2 amp fuse in visor)
-outside power mirrors
-dome lamp
-heated windshield
-glove box lamp
-engine compartment lamp
-luggage compartment lamp
Any ideas what to check first? Current plan is to replace headlight switch and pull the fuse whenever I am stopped for any length of time.
Thanks.
Roy
#4
12-27-2012, 12:00 PM
What in the world is going on with this forum???? EddieE made a great post with super instructions that I read and, thank goodness, printed this morning. I just came back to look and all of the attachments have changed. Every time I reresh the page something new shows up, none of them relating to my vehicle. Very strange.
Roy
Roy
#6
12-27-2012, 10:20 PM
EddieE,
Glad I printed the first one. I had also posted you a thanks after that message. It disappeared, too. Even posted a message on the MF help & suggestion forum asking the administrator to look into it, no reply.
Just got the new one today, will put it in tomorrow. I'll let you know. Looks like I will have lots of fun trying to find the 1.6 amp drain.
Roy
Glad I printed the first one. I had also posted you a thanks after that message. It disappeared, too. Even posted a message on the MF help & suggestion forum asking the administrator to look into it, no reply.
Just got the new one today, will put it in tomorrow. I'll let you know. Looks like I will have lots of fun trying to find the 1.6 amp drain.
Roy
#7
12-28-2012, 01:07 AM
Strange indeed, I posted the correct pics, come back and all sorts of weird pics posting in my answer, lol.
#8
12-28-2012, 08:48 AM
Fuse 16 : radio, power antenna switch
Fuse 8 : Cig. lighter, trunk release.
I have seen a few where the rear window defrost switch caused some drainage problems too, just trying to recall various drainage problems. Maybe these two diagrams will help, should be similar if not the same to your year. (that is if this goofy site doesnt change them or delete.)
Fuse 8 : Cig. lighter, trunk release.
I have seen a few where the rear window defrost switch caused some drainage problems too, just trying to recall various drainage problems. Maybe these two diagrams will help, should be similar if not the same to your year. (that is if this goofy site doesnt change them or delete.)
Last edited by EddieE; 01-01-2013 at 01:30 AM.
#9
12-31-2012, 03:49 PM
try replacing the lighting control module thats whats probably causing the battery drain. when my headlights went out i replaced the multifuction switch on the steering wheel headlights work now.I have a 1998 mercury grand marquis.
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