it could just be time to replace the plugs. The plugs on the back side of the engine will be the hardest to get at. You might also need new wires, but go for the plugs first.

As a side note, the fuel treatments take the full tank to work.

You should probably consider changing the plugs regardless. 100,000 miles is generally about as long as any good plugs will last in a gasoline engine. After that you generally get worse gas mileage due to under-burn and/or fouling. When you do change the plugs, take note of the condition of the plugs.

there''s a chart of the different looks you may get from a plug over at classic truck shop.

Hopefully your plugs look like the first one. Let us know how they look.

 

P0302 shoud be th code they got...


Does it sound like predetination (pinging or valve chatter as it is commonly referred to)? I think I would pull the plug on the #2 cy and maybe the one beside it and see how they look.. Could be just a bad plug, a vac leak, or a bad injector on the number 2 cylinder....


WHen you rev the engine with the car in neutral does it still make the noise?? You may want to inspect your motor and transmission mounts as that coudl be the knock...

 

oo... I should check that on my wife''s vic... only 180K on that one [img]smileys/smiley4.gif[/img] the chatter may just be worn mounts.

 

The trans mounts are notoriously crappy on the Taurus/sable... Haven;t heard too much abou tthe Vic/GM but there''s always a first... The heat shelds on the cat converters are another thing to check.. They are more of a jingly tinny rattle (real technical here) They are just spot welded to the cats and will ocasionally brake loose.. Some big radiator hose clams are and easy fix for those...

 

I am going to have to try and change the plugs myself. Every shop I called gave me a price of $270-$340 to change the plugs and wires.
I have no issue doing it myself, but the manifold cover is in the way. How difficult is it to remove it and can someone give me some direction.
Thanks

 

This isn;t a terribly difficult ordeal.. Just disconnect everything that goes to the upper intake (vac lines, throttle cables & bracket, EGR valve, wiring to sensors) Unbolt the intake bolts starting at the outer ends working towards the center..


It does make it a tadmore accessableto remove the wiper arms and cowl vent cover, but it''s not totally necessary...


I''d suggest throwing a rag or some tape over the open ports (if you;re like me somthing is gonna fall in there otherwise)


THey recomend replacing the gasket for the upper intake but I;ve found that if they can be reused at least once.. Look it over and use your best judgement on that..


For the reinstall reverse the procedure.. STart tightening the manifold in the center and work your way out to the ends. Torque spec is 71 - 106 in/lbs... OR just snug them.. If you''re He-Man you may wanna use the torque wrench...


WHile you are at it you probably ought to replace the wires for the simple reason that you don;t wanna have to pull the manifold again to change those.. If it''s around 100k miles it''s probably due anyhow.. (oh wait you did say wires, sorry)I''d also check and possibly clean the throttle body and egr valve while it''s all apart... Inspect the rubber slboes and connectors for the PCV and breather lines also.. They have a tendancy to get mushy and deteriorated..

 

I'm experiencing the same problems with my 02 Sable. Stopped at a red light, the engine begins to stutter. Everything is fine in other driving. What's the final verdict in what is going to fix the problem? I'm not mechinally inclined so planning on bringing it to the shop this week. I would like to know where I can tell them to look first. Thanks guys!

 

Well they should know where to look first, especially if the check eng. light is on. But it would be nice if you went in there with a little understanding on what probable culprits are. First, you did not say the mileage, if you maintain the car regularly and if the check eng. soon light is on. My first suspect, if there is no power loss, is the IAC(idle air control). Does the car ever stall out and does it sputter every time? Hot/cold? Specifics will help! Let me know.

 

Thanks for the quick reply Conan.

Here's the details:

No engine light on, yet.

87K miles, I picked it up used at 84K. I put new spark plugs and fuel filter in shortly after I got it.

It has yet to completely stall out. The engine stutters at every stop while in drive. Haven't noticed much of a difference between the engine being hot and cold. There is a small oil leak that I've been waiting to fix until it gets a little warmer here in North Dakota. Not sure if that has any effect on it.

Thanks again!

 

it could be clogged oxygen sensors causing it to run rich because the computer thinks it's running too lean. Check the sensor(s) on the exhaust manifold. if there's carbon built up on them, you'll need to replace them. there could also be a vacuum leak somewhere in the system causing the problem... though it would have to be a pretty bad leak to do it (completely open line somewhere)