This is the wife's car and she works from home so doesn't drive it much.
This afternoon she tells me she needs power steering fluid.
No leaks or drips under car, fluid not low, no whine from the pump as if it is low on fluid.
But to turn the wheel is something I've never felt before. It's as if there are "bumps" or rough spots as you turn the wheel. Almost like if you turned a gear where every third or forth space between the teeth were filled in. Fine once you get past the "hump or bump" till you hit the next one. Is this a bad power steering pump? I haven't been underneath to look for bent tie rods. Should I also look at the Pittman arm?
Please help. Looks like a real bear to replace the pump.

 

Hello, and welcome to the Mercury Forums--
In order to give a proper diagnosis, we need to know the YEAR of manufacture, because early models have the "Recirculating Ball" -type steering, while the later models have the "Rack & Pinion" design.
From your description of the problem, it appears that you have the "Rack& Pinion" steering, and the problem lies with the power steering unit being "damaged".
You said that you didn't get under the car to check for suspension damage or interference that could cause the "bump" that you feel.
Also, your Marquis had non-greaseable suspension parts installed at the factory -- tie rods, ball joints, linkage, etc. -- which wear out after 45-50 thousand miles.
I replaced all suspension parts with MOOG "Problem-Solver" greaseable units.
Replacing the pump is not easy -- but it will be easier if you remove the plastic Fender Well to gain access.
While you're under there, check to see if oil is leaking around the oil pump -- if it's leaking even a little bit, replace the gasket NOW, while you have access.
Early models (like my '95) had bad machining on the engine block, and the oil pumps leaked around the gasket. I dressed the block surface before re-installing the pump and new "Fel-Pro" gasket. When installing oil pump gasket, you MUST use a torque wrench, and use NO RTV SEALER !!


When you have found and fixed your front-end problems, have your alignment done at a COMPUTER Alignment Shop that will give you a "Print-out" of your alignment before and after the alignment is completed.
Tell the technician that you want the caster, camber, and toe set at the factory NOMINALS, which are the "centers" of the specs.
Don't settle for "close enough" on the alignment specs -- a slight error on the TOE setting can eat up your expensive tires pretty quickly.
I got EXCELLENT wheel alignment at a local GOODYEAR Service Center that has a brand-new BEAR Alignment Rack.
After a proper alignment, the 24-year-old Marquis handles and steers much better than when brand new.
Lemme know what you find out, as I'm curious !!

 

This is a 2001, does not have rack and pinion.
I have it up on jack stands now, we had replaced some of the tie rods with the moog parts with grease fittings.
It really feels like the pump is bad. Is there a step by step or a video anywhere or on YouTube?
Looks like a challenge for me and the brother-in-law in the driveway.

 

Drain ALL of the fluid out of the system and replace with new, Ford-approved power steering fluid.
If that doesn't alleviate your problem, a rebuilt pump from NAPA should do the trick.
I did the NAPA pump thing about 7 years ago -- still working perfectly.
Replacing the pump is a mean feat -- you MAY want to get a mechanic shop to do it -- if you do it yourself, TAKE YOUR TIME -- There are no short-cuts, so plan carefully to avoid do-overs ;>)
IMPORTANT: When all front-end work is completed, take the car to a "COMPUTER-ALIGNMENT" shop, where they give you a "Before & After" print-out. Have the alignment technician set them to "the nominals" = (center of spec.)
A properly-done wheel alignment will SAVE YOUR EXPENSIVE TIRES, while insuring excellent handling and braking.
There are 17 grease fittings installed on the 95 MERC, greased every 5,000 miles -- with LUCAS X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease. (Amazon.com).
The Lucas X-TRA grease carries the highest NLGI rating, with outstanding performance under ALL conditions.
Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck !!

LUCAS X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease

LUCAS X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease
It's the TOUGH stuff !!

 

Unable to do all the front steering components due to brother-in-laws health. We cannot get the Pittman arm off to save us. Took the car to my local garage who agreed to help me out even though I didn't buy the parts from him. $130 to do Pittman arm tie rod end and an inner tie rod. Not too bad. First thing he looked at was the steering shaft universal joint. Bad....... But I've seen numerous YouTube vids and posts on other forums on freeing them back up with PB Blaster and then greasing to help keep them free. I will do this when I get car back tomorrow. If not will have to replace the shaft. At least it's easier than replacing the pump.
Any thoughts? Have you heard of or experienced this remedy before? I'm hoping it's a cure. Just have to add to the maintenance list.

 

Got the car back from local garage. We'd stil be trying to get the Pittman arm off. He spun one of his breaker bars. Then broke the Pittman arm puller even after heating and hitting. Soaked overnight with PB Blaster, added heat again and new puller, finally got it off. Along with the rest of the tie rods and tie rod ends its all new. As I pulled out of his parking lot, I could still feel a little bit of sticking in the steering, but nothing like before, now it was just an annoyance. Picked up a full new can of blaster and went crazy on the universal joint and shaft end at steering pump. Drove the car to work next day to "work it in" after sitting and soaking all night. Holy S#$T.
Like it was never an issue. Even though there are no grease fittings, I will as best I can work grease into the joint to keep lubricated and keep moisture out. That really saved me a ton of $ and headache if I would have had to pull and/or replace the shaft.
Lesson learned, don't just let vehicles sit. Use them occasionally. I will now take her car to work once in awhile if she doesn't use it, just to stretch it's legs. An alignment and she's all set.
By the way he did charge me an extra hour labor for all the trouble, but at $60 and hour he's much more reasonable than most, not to mention he made nothing on parts. So I can't complain.
Hope this helps anybody else with a similar issue.